Welcome to CrossDock,

In this issue, we explore the fast fashion industry—its impact on the environment, the exploitation of workers in underdeveloped countries, and the hidden costs behind cheap, trendy clothes.

Slow Fashion 👕

Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months – Oscar Wilde

There was a time when fashion was a luxury only the wealthy could afford. Clothes were handmade, often taking weeks or even months to create. Rich fabrics like silk and velvet were reserved for royalty, while common people resorted to simple outfits and materials.

It all changed in the 18th century with the Industrial Revolution — a time when machines made everything but God. Machines took over spinning, weaving, and sewing, slashing both production times and costs. Fashionable clothing, once reserved for the elite, became something anyone could aspire to own. Mass production didn’t just transform how clothes were made — it revolutionized who could wear them.

Fast forward to today, and fast fashion has also achieved something similar. Trendy clothes land in stores — or on your doorstep — at lightning speed. It’s affordable, accessible to all, and nearly impossible to ignore.

The fast fashion industry is now worth over $106 billion and is expected to hit $179.5 billion by 2030. But behind those trendy, ultra-affordable clothes lies a hidden cost — a cost we’re all paying. To understand how we got here, let’s take a step back and explore the factors that fueled the rise and growth of fast fashion.

Story of Fast Fashion

For decades, the fashion industry had moved at a steady, predictable pace. Designers would sketch out their collections, but it would take months before those designs made their way into stores. Consumers had to wait endlessly to lay hands on their favorite designs. 

But by the late 20th century, consumer behavior began to shift. People were looking for more variety, faster turnover, and, above all, affordability. 

This is where the magic of innovation and globalization came into play. Brands like Zara and H&M reimagined the production process, asking, "How can we make fashion faster and cheaper?" The answer was in creating hyper-efficient supply chains driven by technology and data. 

Every step, from design to delivery, was streamlined. Real-time analytics allowed brands to track what was selling in stores and online, using this data to adjust production quickly. This just-in-time production ensured that only what was needed was made, reducing waste and minimizing lead times.

Instead of producing huge seasonal collections months in advance, brands began making smaller batches and testing the waters. If a particular dress or jacket became a hit, they could ramp up production in just a few weeks. If it didn’t sell, they scrapped it and moved on. This agility kept inventory fresh and eliminated the need for excess stock. 

If there’s one phenomenon that truly fueled the rise of the fast fashion supply chain, it’s globalization. Economic reforms in many Southeast and East Asian countries made it easier for Western brands to outsource production to these regions, where labor costs were much lower. 

The timing couldn’t have been better for these brands. In 2005, the expiration of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement — a decades-old trade agreement that had restricted textile exports from developing countries — opened the floodgates. Fast fashion brands suddenly had access to a vast, cost-effective production network that allowed them to scale their operations like never before.

As the industry evolved, e-commerce and social media further fueled its rapid growth. Online shopping made trendy clothing available to anyone, anywhere, without the need for physical stores. Brands could update their online inventories instantly, showcasing new arrivals as soon as they were available. Meanwhile, platforms like Instagram and TikTok turned trends into immediate must-haves. 

Currently, the fast fashion industry is churning out clothing at an astonishing rate, producing around 100 billion garments every year. This massive production reflects the surge in consumer demand, with global fashion consumption increasing by 400% over the last 20 years. 

On the surface, it might seem like fast fashion has it all—trendy clothes, low prices, and super-fast delivery. But beneath the shiny fabric lies a harsh reality: it comes at a cost, and that cost is the health of our planet.

Environmental impacts

Fast fashion has reshaped the way we shop, flooding the world with cheap, trendy clothing. But it has also triggered an environmental crisis we can no longer ignore.

The fast fashion industry works in a one-way system: vast amounts of nonrenewable resources are used to produce garments that are often worn briefly and then discarded, creating an endless amount of waste.

Globally, the fast fashion industry produces approximately 100 billion garments every year. Out of this, 92 million tonnes often end up in landfills within a year. This is roughly equivalent to a garbage truck full of clothes dumping in a landfill every second! 

What’s more concerning is if the trend continues, textile waste is expected to surge to 134 million tonnes annually by 2030, according to the United Nations. 

The carbon footprint of fast fashion is just as alarming as its waste. The industry is responsible for nearly 10% of global carbon emissions—more than aviation and shipping combined. And it’s only getting worse. If nothing changes, emissions are expected to rise by 50% by 2030, fueled by relentless production and growing demand. 

Take Shein, for example. The brand has mastered the art of churning out trendy outfits at lightning speed. But in 2023 alone, it emitted 16.7 million metric tons of carbon dioxide—about the same as four coal plants running for a year. This shows just how damaging the fast fashion model is for the environment.

Fast fashion’s water use is another massive issue. Did you know making one cotton t-shirt uses 2,700 liters of water? That’s enough for one person to drink for three years. And it’s even worse for jeans, which take 7,500 liters per pair. Then there’s the dyeing process, which is responsible for 20% of the world’s wastewater and 3% of CO₂ emissions. All this for clothes we wear only a few times before tossing them into the trash.

And it doesn’t stop at water wastage and carbon emission. Microplastics are another growing problem tied to fast fashion. Synthetic fabrics like polyester, which comprise 60% of all clothing produced today, shed tiny plastic fibers every time they’re washed. 

These fabrics release 500,000 tonnes of microplastics into the oceans each year — that’s the same as dumping 50 billion plastic water bottles into the sea. These microplastics harm marine ecosystems and creep into the food chain, creating long-term risks we’re yet to fully understand.

Use and throw 

Fast fashion has created a culture where clothes are treated as disposable. Most pieces are worn just a few times before being tossed away. According to United States Environmental Protection Agency data, In the U.S. alone, the average person throws out 81.5 pounds of clothing every year. That’s millions of garments piling up in landfills, adding to the 11.3 million tonnes of textiles discarded annually.

And recycling? This barely happens when it comes to fast-fashion clothes. Less than 1% of discarded clothing is turned into new garments, and only 12% of materials are recycled. Many items labeled as "donated" don’t go to those in need; they’re shipped to developing countries, where they often end up as waste in landfills, compounding the problem.

The impact of fast fashion goes far beyond these mountains of discarded fabric. It reaches deep into ecosystems, causing deforestation, soil degradation, and biodiversity loss. Take cotton farming, for example—it accounts for 24% of global insecticide use, wreaking havoc on the environment. 

Then there’s the pollution caused by garment factories in countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, and China. These factories often operate with little to no oversight, dumping untreated wastewater into nearby rivers. In Vietnam, the textile industry has been linked to severe pollution in the Dong Nai River, one of the country’s main water sources. Toxic chemicals and heavy metals from dyeing processes seep into the water, poisoning ecosystems and communities that depend on it.

Labor exploitation

Like nature, humans are equally exploited by the fast fashion industry. Behind the low prices and endless trends lies the dark side of exploitative labor practices. As Fashion Journalist Dana Thomas highlights in her book Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes, the relentless demand for cheap clothing comes at the expense of millions of workers, particularly in developing countries. These workers endure unsafe conditions, grueling hours, and wages so low they cannot escape the cycle of poverty.

The 2013 Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh remains one of the most tragic examples of this exploitation. Over 1,100 garment workers lost their lives when the factory collapsed, exposing the horrifying conditions in which many workers who fuel the fast fashion industry operate. This tragedy brought global attention to the human cost of fast fashion, but nearly a decade later, the exploitation continues.

For enduring such hardships, are the workers paid what they deserve? The answer is a resounding no. In countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, and India, where much of the world’s clothing is made, garment workers often earn far below a living wage.

In Bangladesh, a worker earns just $96 per month, while a livable income would be closer to $570. In India, workers are paid as little as $0.15 per hour. The majority of these workers are women, many of whom are severely underpaid and overworked. 

Beyond low pay, these workers face hazardous conditions daily. Factories are often overcrowded and poorly ventilated, with little regard for fire safety or structural stability. Exposure to toxic chemicals used in fabric dyeing and finishing causes severe health issues over time. According to the Clean Clothes Campaign, garment workers are denied breaks, forced to work overtime without pay, and left without access to basic healthcare.

This exploitation isn’t confined to developing countries like Bangladesh, India and Vietnam. Even in wealthier nations like the United States, fast fashion’s prosperity is built on labor exploitation. In 2017, the Los Angeles Times reported undocumented immigrants work in “sweatshops,” earning below minimum wage to sew clothes for major brands.

A 2021 U.S. Department of Labor report revealed that some workers were being paid less than $2 per hour, highlighting how fast fashion’s drive for profit cuts across borders.

The paradox

Fast fashion’s biggest fans are Gen Z, the digitally savvy generation that loves affordable clothes and keeping up with trends. Their shopping habits are shaped by social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram, where viral shopping hauls and influencers showing off trendy outfits inspire others to shop from brands like Shein, Zara, and H&M.

But here’s the contradiction: while Gen Zs fuel the growth of fast fashion, they also claim to care deeply about sustainability. According to a First Insight survey, 75% of Gen Z consumers prefer to buy from sustainable brands—more than Millennials, Gen X, or Boomers. They’re also the most likely to embrace things like thrifting, clothing rentals, and swaps, which fit their eco-friendly ideals. 

Despite these good intentions, fast fashion remains wildly popular among Gen Z. The draw of cheap, trendy clothes and the instant gratification of a quick buy often overshadow their commitment to sustainability.

A 2023 study by ThredUp revealed that two-thirds of Gen Z shoppers admitted to buying fast fashion despite knowing its environmental and social consequences.

Economic implications

The next pressing question is: what are the economic implications of fast fashion? And just how much does waste and returns cost the industry? The answers are staggering. 

Product returns, especially driven by the rise of online shopping, add another layer to the problem. Some fast fashion retailers report return rates as high as 50%, and many returned items are not even resold. Instead, they’re discarded, contributing further to landfills and piling on environmental harm.

The process of managing these returns — from transport to inspection and disposal — also adds to financial and environmental costs, with significant carbon emissions generated along the way.  

In the UK, fashion returns cost the industry at least £7 billion in 2022, generating about 750,000 tonnes of CO2 emissions. Out of this, 350,000 tonnes came just from the transportation involved in handling returns, according to the British Fashion Council.

For consumers, the cheap, low-quality clothes from fast fashion might seem like a bargain at first, but they wear out quickly, leading to more frequent replacements. In the long run, these “deals” often cost more than investing in a few high-quality, durable pieces.

Right direction 

After facing increasing scrutiny for its harmful impacts, the fast fashion industry has now started to make some changes. Major brands and governments are beginning to take steps to address the environmental damage and improve working conditions. 

H&M, for instance, has launched its Conscious Collection, setting an ambitious goal to use 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030. The brand also encourages in-store recycling, where customers can drop off old garments to be reused or repurposed. 

Zara’s Join Life initiative follows a similar path, focusing on sustainable fabrics, cutting water usage, and providing in-store recycling bins to encourage responsible disposal of clothing.

Luxury brands, too, are joining the movement. Stella McCartney has long been a leader in sustainable fashion, avoiding animal leather and fur and emphasizing regenerative practices and circular designs. Gucci, meanwhile, has gone fur-free and debuted its “Gucci Off the Grid” collection in 2020, made entirely from organic and recycled materials. 

Governments are also stepping in to address the fast fashion crisis. In the UK, the Waste Prevention Programme holds manufacturers accountable for textile waste. The UK’s Environmental Audit Committee has also revisited its inquiry into fast fashion, seeking to create more sustainable practices across the industry. 

In the U.S., the FABRIC Act (Fashioning Accountability and Building Real Institutional Change) is a proposed piece of legislation currently underway aimed at improving wages and working conditions for garment workers while holding brands accountable for unethical labor practices. 

Similarly, New York has introduced the Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act. This act promotes sustainability and social responsibility by requiring major fashion brands to disclose their environmental and social impact and take actionable steps to reduce it. Both initiatives reflect ongoing efforts to address the ethical and environmental challenges within the fashion industry.

Meanwhile, the EU is rolling out policies under its Circular Economy Action Plan, which includes measures to improve textile recycling, extend product life cycles, and hold brands responsible for their environmental footprint.

Final thoughts 

Fast fashion’s convenience is hard to deny, but it is important to understand that this convenience is causing irreparable damage. From environmental destruction to exploitative labor practices, the cost of cheap, disposable clothing runs far deeper than its price tag. While systemic change is needed from brands and governments, consumers have the power to make a difference, too. 

Choosing to buy fewer, higher-quality items, embracing second-hand shopping, or supporting brands that prioritize sustainability are small but impactful steps. Every mindful decision contributes to a collective push toward a more ethical and sustainable future for fashion—one where style doesn’t come at the expense of people or the planet.

Thank you for reading. We’ll see you at the next edition!